Greetings from Leon! If you haven’t caught on by now, we switch cities effectively every Monday. Last week it was Matagalpa, this week it’s Leon, and next week we’ll be back in Granada with the rest of our group. The entire Duke Engage group happened to cross paths in our hostel in Matagalpa this morning (they took a van here; we took the same van back) and the few minutes we had together were wonderful. I forgot how much fun all fifteen of us have together. I’m looking forward to our week together in Granada after this!

The ride here was great. Because Matagalpa is up in the mountains, its climate is noticeably cooler and less humid than the rest of Granada. And because Leon is in the south, its noticeably warmer and muggier down here. I could clearly feel the temperature gradient as we drove down Nicaragua, so by the time we arrived in Leon, I was sweating through my t-shirt and jeans that I had donned in Matagalpa to keep warm. Other than that, I wish I could have taken pictures out of the moving van to show you guys, because the landscape was beautiful. As we exited Matagalpa, distant mountains and rolling hills surrounded us on all three sides, and the highway seemed to plow its way directly through the countryside. The landscape looked a bit like the south of Italy when we visited with Dr. S last year, but the occasional corrugated iron huts and the random herds of cows reminded me we were still in Nicaragua. Due to the fact that we lacked air conditioning, all of the windows were open. With my feet propped up, hair blowing into my eyes, bucolic landscapes unfolding around me, and the distant banter of basketball among the guys in the backseat, I couldn’t help but fall asleep. 

Observation: Tess (one of our program leaders) seems to be really good at hitting it off with Nicaraguan people. Not only is she extremely fluent in Spanish, she seems to have a way of getting people to smile and open up to her. I couldn’t help but notice how by the end of the ride, she was practically best friends with our driver. To be successful in the kind of NGO work here, which all about making relationships and fostering personal development among people who previously had no conception of their abilities or possibilities, people skills and a positive attitude seem to be more important than being book smart. I’m continually amazed at the dedication, creativity, perseverance, optimism, confidence, and generosity of the program leaders here. They get up every morning full of inspiration and energy and marshal teenagers and asesoras alike. They’ve designed an awesome program and built up a network in a third world country all from scratch and with only three people. Tim, our country director, is entertaining serious thoughts about opening up a pizza join in Nicaragua so that he can earn a decent living and continue the work he’s doing here, implying that he’s paid next to nothing and still loves what he does. I have true respect for these people.

Last night, to celebrate a successful week, we all went out to dinner at an Italian place really close to La Buena Onda (still don’t know what Onda means) that served pretty good pasta and pizza. We got to know Tim a little bit better and relax after a hard weeks of work. 

Eating Italian in Nicaragua.

The hostel here in Leon is called Sonati. It’s a really cool place that’s actually an NGO; all the profits go towards teaching environmental awareness to local school children here. Like all hostels, it’s extremely laid back and friendly. Upon walking in, there are a whole row of bikes, outdoor equipment and pictures of tours that Sonati endorses/runs. The front desk is super friendly, and off to the side there’s a dark common room of sorts where people gather to eat, watch TV (soccer is popular now since it’s the Euro Cup) and watch movies. Inside, there’s a wide open courtyard open to the elements, in which grows all kinds of plants. A path snakes its way through the courtyard, which also sports a few of the ubiquitous hammocks and the occasional cat. Rooms line the courtyard. There’s constantly people lounging on the floor, sleeping in hammocks, eating communal meals together, etc. Nicaragua has a huge backpacking culture, which is probably true of most Central American countries. Thus, all of the hostels here are full of earthy hippies and the occasional Rastafarian. Tattoos and piercings are exhibited at above average levels. Everyone is extremely friendly and open however. For example, we went to another hostel called Big Foot (run by an Aussie) for dinner. Upon entering, I realized why we were probably staying at Sonati. Not only does Sonati support a really great cause, Big Foot is also a huge party scene, where we would have gotten no work done. Because I was still feeling ill, I went to the back to lie down for a bit. The back, after getting past a bar and common room, consists of a long hallway, rooms, an open air couch, and a pool, where a bunch of twenty somethings were drinking and swimming. I was just sitting, feeling a bit sick and a little sorry for myself when a woman approached and asked me if I felt ok. We proceeded to talk for the next half our, during which I found out she was here for vacation, but taught at an international school in Guatemala, but was originally from Canada. The rest of the group seemed to be a gaggle of pilots who were looking to have a good time in Nicaragua. I also recognized a jewelry seller from Granada, who had been traveling up and down Central America for the past six months. Everyone seems to have a story and is willing to share it down here. 

Home sweet home!

Pretty sure one guy designed all the churches in Nicaragua because they look so similar. This church (one of two in León) is called La Merced as well!

Yes, I am still feeling a little bit under the weather. I have bug bites EVERYWHERE. They bite in the places where I wouldn’t normally apply DEET, which means I’m peppered with bites on the tops of my legs and my underarms. I’ve got a few nasty patches of bites all over the small of my back, my leg looks like it has chicken pox, and rather nasty and suspicious rash has developed on a small area at the top of my left thigh. Plus I’m still exhausted and a bit nauseous from my gastrointestinal ordeal Saturday. Physically, I could be doing better. 

I’ve got to wake up early tomorrow and make my own breakfast! We went grocery shopping earlier in the evening; the supermarkets here are exactly the same as in the US. Anyways, goodnight! More on the work we’ll be doing tomorrow...